Few pressure washing projects deliver satisfaction quite like cleaning a driveway. Years of tyre marks, oil drips, mould, and accumulated grime vanish as you work, revealing the original surface beneath. It's one of the most common—and most rewarding—tasks for a pressure washer owner.
The good news is that concrete and brick driveways are among the most forgiving surfaces to pressure wash. With reasonable technique, you're unlikely to cause damage. The challenge is achieving consistent, streak-free results that look genuinely clean rather than patchily cleaned. Here's how to get it right.
What You'll Need
- Pressure washer (2,000+ PSI recommended for concrete)
- Surface cleaner attachment (highly recommended)
- 25° and 15° nozzles for spot cleaning
- Driveway/concrete cleaner or degreaser
- Stiff broom for pre-sweep
- Safety glasses and closed-toe shoes
- Garden hose for pre-wetting
Preparation: Setting Up for Success
Clear the Area
Remove everything from the driveway—vehicles, pot plants, bins, toys, furniture. Move anything within splash range of the edges. Close nearby windows and doors. If your letterbox or other fixtures are mounted on the driveway, plan your cleaning path around them.
Pre-Sweep
Sweep away loose debris—leaves, dirt, gravel, and any large particles. This prevents the pressure washer from just pushing debris around and ensures the water can attack the actual grime stuck to the surface. Pay attention to edges and expansion joints where debris accumulates.
Protect Surrounding Areas
Pre-wet any adjacent garden beds, lawn, and plants. This dilutes any cleaning chemicals that might splash onto them and helps protect against damage. Cover any sensitive plants if using strong degreasers.
Check your local water restrictions before starting. Pressure washers use surprisingly little water (5-8 LPM typically), but you'll still be running for a while on a large driveway. Most water restriction levels permit pressure washing, but it's worth confirming.
Pre-Treatment: Tackling Stubborn Stains
For best results, pre-treat stubborn stains before general cleaning:
Oil and Grease Stains
Apply a dedicated driveway degreaser to oil stains. Let it dwell for 10-15 minutes (don't let it dry). For old, deeply penetrated oil stains, you may need to scrub with a stiff brush to work the degreaser into the pores. Commercial products work better than household remedies for serious stains.
Rust Stains
Rust requires specific rust-removing products—general cleaners won't touch it. Apply according to directions and allow adequate dwell time. Be aware that rust removers may affect surrounding areas, so apply carefully.
Mould and Mildew
For green or black organic growth, a general concrete cleaner often works. For persistent mould, use a dedicated mould killer. Apply, let dwell, then pressure wash. The mechanical action of the pressure washer combined with the chemical treatment gives the best results.
The Cleaning Process
Method 1: Using a Surface Cleaner (Recommended)
- Start at the top of the driveway (furthest from the drain/street)
- Keep the surface cleaner flat on the ground—lifting one side creates uneven cleaning
- Move at a steady walking pace—slow enough to clean, fast enough to avoid damaging
- Overlap each pass by about 10% to avoid leaving stripes
- Work in straight lines, moving progressively toward the drainage point
- For stained areas, slow down or make multiple passes
Method 2: Using a Spray Wand
- Start with the 25° (green) nozzle at about 30cm distance
- Work in overlapping, sweeping motions
- Maintain consistent distance and speed
- For stubborn areas, switch to the 15° (yellow) nozzle briefly
- Work section by section to avoid visible striping
- Keep the wand moving—dwelling in one spot can etch the concrete
Key Takeaway
A surface cleaner attachment makes driveway cleaning 3-4 times faster and produces more consistent results. If you have a standard suburban driveway, this single accessory will pay for itself in time savings on the first use.
Working Pattern
Always work from the top of the driveway (nearest the house or highest point) toward the street or drain. This pushes dirty water away from cleaned areas. If you work uphill, dirty water runs back over your clean concrete, leaving marks as it dries.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Stopping mid-section: Complete each section before taking breaks. Stopped lines can show in the final result
- Inconsistent speed: Varying your pace creates uneven cleaning. Find a rhythm and stick to it
- Too much pressure on new concrete: Concrete less than a year old needs gentler treatment
- Ignoring edges: Edge areas need attention too—use your spray wand for areas the surface cleaner can't reach
- Skipping the rinse: After chemical treatments, thoroughly rinse the entire surface
Dealing with Expansion Joints and Cracks
Driveways have expansion joints (the lines cut into the concrete) that collect dirt and require attention. Use your spray wand with a 15° nozzle to clean along these lines. Work carefully—aggressive pressure directly into joints can dislodge the filler material.
For cracks, be cautious. Pressure washing won't fix cracks, and aggressive cleaning into deep cracks can force water underneath the slab, potentially causing lifting or further damage. Clean gently and consider having significant cracks professionally repaired before sealing.
Avoid using the turbo/rotary nozzle on the entire driveway. While it's tempting because of its aggressive cleaning action, it can create an uneven, roughened texture. Reserve it for spot treatment of severe stains only.
Finishing Touches
Final Rinse
After the main cleaning pass, do a final rinse of the entire surface using a wider angle nozzle (40°) at lower pressure. This clears any remaining debris and cleaning residue.
Edge Detailing
Use your spray wand to clean the edges where the surface cleaner couldn't reach—against walls, kerbs, and garden beds. Work carefully near gardens to avoid spraying soil onto your clean concrete.
Drying and Inspection
Let the driveway dry completely (allow several hours in the sun) before parking vehicles or replacing items. Once dry, walk the surface and inspect for any missed spots or remaining stains. Address these before considering the job complete.
Post-Cleaning: Sealing (Optional)
A concrete sealer protects your clean driveway and makes future cleaning easier. If you're considering sealing:
- Wait at least 24-48 hours after cleaning for the concrete to fully dry
- Choose a sealer appropriate for your climate and use (penetrating vs film-forming)
- Follow manufacturer application instructions carefully
- Apply in suitable weather (not before rain, not in extreme heat)
Sealing isn't essential, but it does provide protection against staining and weathering. A quality sealer can make oil drips easier to clean and reduce mould growth.
Maintenance Schedule
How often should you pressure wash your driveway? It depends on your conditions:
- Light use, minimal shade: Every 2-3 years
- Regular use, some shade: Annually
- Heavy use, significant shade (mould-prone): Every 6-12 months
- Oil drips or heavy staining: Spot clean immediately, full clean as needed
Regular maintenance cleaning is much easier than tackling years of buildup. Once you've done the initial deep clean, keeping your driveway looking good takes far less effort.